Dubai. If you’ve got it, flaunt it.

Abu Dhabi-doo!

I’ll be frank, Dubai was never a priority on my bucket list. Greece already already provides me with ample hedonistic pleasures. However, this time there was no escape, neither from the insistence of old friends living in the metropolis, nor from Husband’s worldly reasoning that I “had to see it once”. So I did. I flew to Abu Dhabi pampered to the nines in the cushy comfort of an Etihad Business class upgrade (courtesy of friends in high places!) Alighting from the plane onto the tarmac the cultural differences were already obvious. Male airport personnel in long, white robes and traditional headdress diligently herded passengers into buses towards the arrival gates. In the meanwhile, I was worrying about the security hazard of all that fabric flowing in the wind and hoping they stayed clear of the suction of jet engines, not to mention ramp machinery. Sorry, but years of living with an aviation expert has taken its toll.

The 60-minute drive from Abu Dhabi to Dubai is as straight and uneventful as a highway carved out in the desert can be. This is the longest road in the UAE and links the two major cities. The Abu Dhabi stretch provides minimal interest in terms of landscape beyond the natural beauty of the ubiquitous palm tree. Dubai, on the other hand, starts blowing its trumpet from far off with the dazzling shine of its looming towers. Despite horror tales of maniacal acrobats at the wheel on this wide road (often up to 8 lanes in each direction) we reached our destination unscathed and sane. Perhaps I am too accustomed to the antics of their Greek and Portuguese counterparts, because I did not notice nothing out of the extraordinary. Or my head was just way up in the clouds…

The Spice Souk in Deira

Feeling like a Spice Girl

I had but one desire to request of our hosts, Ally and Roberto. As usual it was food related: a visit to the Spice Souk in the old neighbourhood of Deira. This area near the Dubai Creek is designated as Old Dubai and has nothing to do with the world of glitzy, mega shopping malls and glamorous hotels. The small, covered souk is not particularly grand when compared to that of Istanbul, nonetheless, it possesses a charming, everyday local vibe. The abundance of spices, dyes and teas available is enough to make an imam swoon.

I lost myself in a myriad of kaleidoscopic colours, seductive aromas and inebriating incense. Such delights as these stimulate the palate and the senses. Forget the pre-packaged supermarket specimens which have long lost their flavour. Here was freshly pounded hot chilli peppers (one sniff of it capable of burning your nostrils or send you sneezing all the way to India), whole dehydrated turmeric and ginger root looking like pieces of dead, discoloured coral and cinnamon sticks so big they seemed to have come straight off the tree bark.

Eucalyptus crystals and Iranian dried limes

As a lifetime chronic sufferer of allergies I have always had a personal Vicks fetish to the major distaste of some family members. In the souk I discovered a worthy replacement in the form of dehydrated eucalyptus crystals from India. One of these tiny, transparent crystals dissolved in a cup of warm water creates such an intense menthol aroma that it hits your airways like an overdose of wasabi, unblocking persistent sinuses and congested nasal passages. I was sold and I dig it so much that I could sniff on it all day. It wouldn’t be a good look, though.

The next surprise were the black, sun-dried limes, a traditional element in Persian cuisine. Beyond their unsightly appearance (they resemble dirty, shrivelled up, ping-pong balls) it was hard to imagine their hidden qualities. However, after a few sniffs and tips on how and where to use it didn’t take me too long to be convinced.

At that point my imagination was running wild and a selection of spices and Arabian teas were filling up the counter. I could gladly have filled up a wooden dhow with all the bounty in the shop and sent it sailing all the way to Athens. If only I were a genie in a bottle.

…and then bargaining

It was time to call it quits and summon the bill. The ludicrous sum set off a series of reactions from our side, from total disbelief to a series of mimicked heart attacks. Now I suck at bargaining, but I wanted those spices like a junkie craves a fix. Fortunately, the two male companions thrive on such financial challenges and after an hour of civilised haggling (it pays to keep cool) – and much feigned disinterest – we reached a reasonable figure. My trip to Dubai was off to a good start.

Dubai Creek

Outside, on the waterfront we took time to contemplate the old Arabian style, wooden boats (dhows) docked along the wharf of the Dubai Creek. Until about 40 years ago this salt-water creek was the central trading point between the Gulf states and such faraway places as Africa, India and Persia. These huge, tired-looking boats, seemingly on the verge of collapse do not seem very seaworthy after a lifetime spent braving the oceans. However, they are still very active in plying their trade up and down from Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Sudan and Somalia mostly. There is an endless stream of cargo – an astonishing panoply of AC units, TV screens, household articles, foodstuffs, clothes, even cars – being loaded and unloaded onto the wharf. The sun-and-ocean battered, scrawny, unkempt sailor waves down at me from a dhow as I take a photo. My imagination runs wild as I wonder with certain unease as to the squalor of his living conditions in the underbelly of this floating, old tub. Judging on external appearance alone, the thought is not a pleasant one, considering that my shopping haul has crossed the oceans thanks to the tribulations of such individuals.

Lunch at The Fish Hut

Haggling had generated general hunger and Ally knew just the place. One of her lunchtime favourites turns out to be The Fish Hut http://dubaifishhutrestaurant.com/index.php  a small, unpretentious, little fish restaurant run by Indians. The fish, prawns, lobsters and squid are exposed on a fish market-style marble counter at the entrance of the restaurant and customers pick and choose what they want and how they’d like it cooked.

For starters, we indulged in grilled, bread-crumbed shrimps and two different squid dishes, one sautéed with a blend of curry spices and the other with rosemary and lemon. The latter version was definitely the favourite one and to be recreated at home soon.

Then came the grilled fish, opened up butterfly-style, one lathered with a spicy green pepper paste and the second one (oh yes, we are hungry!) with a spicy red, herb sauce.

Highly worth mentioning: this place cooks up the most delicious, steamy hot, Indian flatbread paratha I have eaten for a long while. Three baskets of that were ordered in gluttonous succession to accompany our meal. Why do the simple things always taste best?

Dubai Marina

My caffeine addiction required quick relief. What better place than the Dubai Marina for a shot of espresso hit accompanied by some real architectural eye-porn. This part of town is very typical of the new, shiny, high rise skyline that screams Dubai. Whether you’re into modern architecture or not you find yourself gaping and marvelling at the dazzling appeal of the futuristic and daring engineering feat of each individual creation. The multitude of skyscrapers, jostling for space amongst each other, are practically planted along the marina waterfront creating a glistening front of glass, metal and concrete. Here and there, in between already existing facades, and betrayed only by the ungainly presence of gigantic cranes, some construction company has found a few square metres of space worth developing. There is always place for one more and the next one will be higher, shinier and even more jaw-dropping. Goes without saying.

A sweet pit stop

If you are ever wanting for something sweet there is a place on the Dubai marina promenade that will hit the spot. It not only offers high level French pastries or western style snacks, but it is the holy temple for what I’d call sweet “caviar” of Bedouins. Upon entering the reputable Bateel’s café https://www.bateel.com/en/dates an employee will offer you a date or two to try. The rich goodness of these beauties will convince you immediately that you need a stash to take back home. Having said that, they may well be the best in town, but quality and luxury packaging do come with a price. Ouch! However, you only live once, and it is a fact that these precious little fruits are actually super healthy, so be it.

Abayas & niqabs vs hotpants

When necks get too sore from looking up too long then it’s time for focusing on people passing by. There are all sorts here, but I can’t spot the locals. A limo drives up and a whole Saudi family streams out from multiple doors, the male head of the family ahead followed by wife and progeny in tow. They’re here for their afternoon stroll and shisha lounging session. Only the sight of a designer handbag and fancy footwear peeking out from under the wife’s (consort number one, number two?) black abaya niggle my imagination as to what may lurk beneath. Just then skimpily dressed girls in sports bras and tight shorts go jogging past and I am transported to Californian beaches. I wonder who looks more out of place here in Dubai, the niqab-wearing female or the half-naked, young, blond athlete energetically dashing by?

Growing pains?

Maybe everything has its place in this contrived universe, just like a puzzle glued together with pieces that don’t really fit, but are obliged to. I guess it’s complicated. I suppose religious and cultural compromise are required when an economy – no longer fuelled by oil reserves – relies mainly on foreign investment, trade, construction and tourism. A nagging thought persists in my mind i.e. will the bubble ever burst in this unstoppable real estate gold mine?  What if for some arbitrary reason Dubai were to lose it’s present attraction factor along with it’s expat workforce who comprise 75% of the population? Who would feed the many luxurious, residential properties and dashing 7-star hotels? It is unthinkable to imagine Dubai ever becoming a ghost town. At the moment it feels very much alive and for someone like me on a leisure blitz visit it is difficult to see beyond the  photo-shopped images. I detect no outward signs of growing pains.

After an apartment rooftop pool swim for some and a jog round the neighbouring golf course for others (none of which I engaged in as I was still too engrossed in contemplating – and sniffing – my shopping haul) the evening came. A visit to the Souk Al Bahar, a traditional Arabic style mall, was on the cards for us. Our guests, however, insisted on pre-dinner drinks on one of the mall’s terraces conveniently located in front of The Fountain on the lake with the impressive backdrop view of the Burj Khalifa tower looming behind. The sheer height makes it difficult for the amateur photographer trying to fit it all into an iphone frame.

The Burj Khalifa

The Fountain project is the world’s largest choreographed fountain system and is set on the artificial lake in downtown Dubai near the Burj Khalifa, which at 828 m stands as the highest building in the world. The show was about to begin and I still doubted just how good it was going to be. At the time I had not realised that this act of megalomania alone had cost the emirate close to 180 million euro. I guess there’s more where that came from.

Well, there is definitely a Bollywood essence to the sound and light show. Spouts of water are shot up to heights of 150 m in the air to the sound of Arabic and international music hits. At times the fountain seems to take on an almost human form like belly-dancers sashaying over the water. These high pressure water shooters also create a roaring boom-like noise thus adding extra oomph to an already breathtaking show. You just can’t deny the “Wow!” factor. I get goose bumps and can only imagine what it must be like to hear Andrea Bocelli and Sarah Brightman’s Con te partiró  assisted by such a colourful and bombastic display. This event takes place on a daily basis every evening from 6 pm till midnight practically. We lingered on to view two sessions in a row (there’s a 20 minute interval in between, useful for focusing on finishing your drinks) just waiting for the right song on the playlist. I could have stayed all night, but my stomach was asking for more solid nurture.

Dubai by night

Our teppanyaki meal at the fancy Kanpai https://www.kanpaime.com/  was quite satisfying and service, as usual, up to standard. We were fortunate to have the Asian chef all to ourselves round the teppanyaki table. This happy-go-lucky fellow vented his good humour amusing (himself mostly) with juggling food and showing off his martial prowess with his cooking utensils. The showbiz element follows you everywhere in Dubai.

It was time to check out the city by night. Chauffeured around by a taxi driver (always a Pakistani national) weaving his way round the heavy evening traffic we could sit back and focus on the sights which were made more glamorous by the contrast of night. There seems to be no issue here regarding energy saving or electricity bills. The air con units work non-stop and Dubai is lit up like an overloaded Christmas tree. Most likely, astronauts will be able to spot the glitzy emirate from outer space.

Next stop: the bar/club lounge venue called 360° https://www.jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/dubai/jumeirah-beach-hotel/restaurants/360/ located at the end of a pier on the Jumeirah Beach Hotel – Umm Suqueim complex. In order to get there – or anywhere where alcohol is involved – you have to go via the hotel. From there on all guests are shuttled up the pier to the 360° location on small golf buggies. You are guaranteed a fun ride depending on the driving capabilities of your driver. I suggest you hold on tight. If you are lucky with the driver you may want to tip him at the end . At 360° you have panoramic views of the Gulf bay and of the Burj Al Arab from the sea. Whether you’re in a party mood or not, there is plenty of space to dance, drink, eat, smoke a shisha or just chill and enjoy the night views. I can imagine that sunset gazing from this location must be popular.

Sometimes it rains

Rain albeit a deceitful, trickling, bashful downpour had come to Dubai. Apparently it rarely happens, maybe once every three years. Life in the UAE is all about the outdoors so I sensed the locals getting a bit miffed. After all this is beach season. Once the real heat kicks in the sea turns into a 37°C broth-like pond and whilst local technology has managed to refrigerate the swimming pools at least to a refreshing level they still haven’t conquered the sea. The good thing about foul weather is that it promotes more educational activities. Therefore, it was a good opportunity to visit the huge frame-like structure that stood out on the horizon every time we drove past on the infamous Sheikh Zayed Road, the main thoroughfare of Dubai.

The Frame

The Dubai Frame http://www.thedubaiframe.com/ opened up in January 2018 to the public and is literally a gigantic picture frame construction looming 150 m high into the sky and spanning 105 m wide. Its metallic, golden relief panels reverberate in the sunshine from afar. Visitors are shuttled up to the top by elevator. The viewing platform has a see-through glass floor walkway running through the middle. Those with vertigo issues are advised to stay away from the central transparent piece of flooring. What is it about glass surfaces that makes you want to tread lightly? It is scary looking down through it all the way to Zabeel Park. It takes a while for your brain to adjust to what it sees and figure out that those pin-like dots moving around are in fact cars.

The Dubai Frame http://www.thedubaiframe.com/ opened up in January 2018 to the public and is literally a gigantic picture frame construction looming 150 m high into the sky and spanning 105 m wide. Its metallic, golden relief panels reverberate in the sunshine from afar. Visitors are shuttled up to the top by elevator. The viewing platform has a see-through glass floor walkway running through the middle. Those with vertigo issues are advised to stay away from the central transparent piece of flooring. What is it about glass surfaces that makes you want to tread lightly? It is scary looking down through it all the way to Zabeel Park. It takes a while for your brain to adjust to what it sees and figure out that those pin-like dots moving around are in fact cars.

The Mexican architect, Fernando Donis, was aiming to create a symbolic frame for the city; up above on the viewing platform you see the two different faces of this emirate; on the one side the modern metropolis we are more familiar with, and to the other the low rise, dull, grey constructions of old Dubai.

Chilling at Ski Dubai

Looking for another indoor venue to escape the warm, unsavoury weather we headed to yet another fantasist’s hallucination, Ski Dubai. Dubai has its very own indoor ski resort and why not? The Mall of the Emirates is obviously big enough to contain this little folly inside its mega structure. Attractions include a zip line over the snowy slopes and a surrealistic touch in the form of a group of expatriated penguins. Should those lovely creatures ever decide to go “prison break” they would be met with the harsh reality of the scorching outdoor temperatures.

We declined any sporty activity in sub-zero conditions and settled in comfortably in the Apres café with a frontal view on the slopes. The skiers on the slopes were easily identifiable by wearing the same identically coloured ski suits. It seems everything can be hired here on the spot. So imagine arriving in tank tops and flip flops and being transformed in a matter of minutes. How easy life has been made to be. As I watched the fumbling attempts of the mostly novice Emiratis on skis happily indulging in cold Alpine activities I couldn’t help being amused. Surreal entertainment to accompany the drinks.

Despite the surroundings we decided to forsake the waiter’s suggestion of glühwein and indulge in wine.  Sadly, in this Muslim emirate, every bottle of wine seems to set you back at least 100 euros. That didn’t stop us from ordering a fine Pinot Gris from Columbia Crest Grand Estates (Washington, USA). Basically, you are spoiled for choice in terms of label availability. Much discussion was had as to who would then abstain from alcohol as drunk driving is an absolute no-no. Well, it wasn’t me, although to everyone’s joy I did at first volunteer. Good intentions and the initial bravado of ordering an espresso were soon forgotten and waived in favour of more promising things.

Eating Japanese at Zuma’s

Dinner was booked at Zuma’s, the trendy, modern Japanese restaurant quite befittingly located in the Financial Trade Centre of Dubai. The meal proved to be worth all the hype with the added plus that the setting is elegant but manages to retain a friendly and informal atmosphere. The salmon and tuna tartáre minced to perfection accompanied by seaweed, sevruga caviar and crispy rice crackers was mouth-watering. So was the black cod gyoza, the beef tartáre with caviar (caviar again!) and the beef presented in a sweet sesame soy dressing.

The last straw to top up an already pregnant belly came in the form of dessert: the final coup. Upon the waiter’s advice we first had the infamous mocha bamboo cake with coffee-Japanese whisky ice-cream and a sort of cocoa crumble, a dish resembling more a potted bamboo plant. this was followed by Hokkaido ice cream and wafer with Japanese Granola. All as delightful as it sounds, take my sweet tooth word for it. The atmosphere in the lounge and bar area of Zuma’s was heating up for the night. However, our friends had other plans.

 Arabian nights at the Jumeirah Al Qasr

Next stop, the Jumeirah Al Qasr (Alcazar) in the Madinat Jumeirah complex. This luxury resort was recreated to resemble a sheikh’s summer residence. This a must see stopover. The entrance gate leads you up a wide driveway lined by majestic palm trees and golden, life-sized statues of Arabian horses immobilised in prancing pose on the green lawn. The assortment of fancy, fast cars being being handed over to waiting valets at the regal entrance are a suiting match for the place. Everything here reeks of Dubai extravaganza and Arabic chic. No doubt there is everything and everyone on hand on the premises to appease even the most discerning holiday maker.

On top of it, there’s the nearby lurking Burj Al Arab for a highly Instagram-able backdrop. We headed inside to the Koubba Bar known for its live music scene. A British duo was on singing duty that particular evening keen to entertain the pampered guests. Amongst the customers were some wealthy American pensioners, Emirati males in traditional garb enjoying their shishas in exclusively male company and well-heeled Middle Eastern women who graced the rooms in their finest apparel. Then there were others, notoriously less well-heeled, but more scantily-clad exotic ladies strutting back and forth, arm in arm, earning admiring glances from male guests – and me. I confess I am also impressed by ladies dressed up to the nines. “Is it remotely possible they could be ladies of the night?” My remark induced heavy laughter in the group. I guess I knew the answer.

Too much of a good thing

The weekend was coming to an end. Too much of everything had left us craving a return to our humdrum routines. It was time for a ride home and some friendly banter with the  driver, who in the likes of his predecessor,  gazed enviously at Husband’s dark, glossy locks. Come to think of it, there is something of the Imran Khan about him and it is not just the hairstyle. Hmm. A final ride to the airport followed the day after, minus the chirpy driver this time round (obviously not into hair styling!). Uninspired by the prospect of a bout of  “I  spy…” with nothing but palm trees for fodder, I took a moment to gather my thoughts.

Present day Dubai tells a tale of rags and riches. Like it or not, it is a success story and I respect the accomplishment. It is a relief not to hear the infinite woes on the subject of failing economies, budgetary restrictions and austerity measures we face back home.  Here infrastructure is developed, the streets are clean, facades sparkle and, even under the brutal sun, green lawns are kept immaculately manicured and flowers bloom perky and fresh in their beds. It seems they are uprooted every few months and new ones replanted in their stead to keep up appearances.

Why? Simply because they can. And those who can do, do. Take, for example, the Sheikh Mohammed al Maktoum, the present ruler of Dubai. A few years ago HRH conceded a rare interview to the BBC. Apparently bothered by the sound of aircraft passing overhead on their normal flight paths he gave orders to halt all air traffic till conclusion of the interview. I guess he was in dire need of a power rush that day. Some of us can not make do with a simple sugar rush.

Regrettably, to all that glitters there is a dark side. It may well be the hushed voices and unsung tales of the many human beings who contributed to the erection of this affluent colossus. This is an uncomfortable thought and, hopefully, more deserving of public attention. Personally, I would like to believe that beyond the hype lies the true soul of this culturally rich Bedouin community that started out as a mere humble fishing village on the Gulf coast 300 years ago. I assume it is preserved somewhere out of reach of the culturally uninformed, extravaganza-craving hordes.

Dubai is indeed bold and daring. Then again grandiosity has always permeated the Arabic tradition. In Dubai’s case it was a progressive and visionary leadership supported by oil money that transported it into a futuristic realm. You may call it fake. Or you may call it new. It certainly makes me think in particular of Shakespeare who once posed the question: “Can we desire too much of a good thing?” his legitimate concern being that excess may do us harm. The Dubai fan club obviously thinks otherwise. To be continued.