Lisbon revisited (updated April 2024)
Lisbon. Something old, something new… but, what’s all the hype about?
Portugal may well be the quiet little backwater of Europe, but it harbours a vibrant capital city with much to offer. Novelty and change are always in the air, a result of Portugal’s long historical openness to other cultures. Blink and you might just miss something.
Lisbon’s revival was propelled by the World Expo event in 1998. The chosen venue, a once neglected industrial, riverside area of Lisbon was then renamed Parque das Nações (Park of Nations). This area transformed overnight into a dynamic recreation site hosting commerce, restaurants, concert venues and also the famous Oceanário de Lisboa, one of the biggest aquariums in Europe worth visiting.
Lisbon is now a hot spot. The unfortunate moniker “PIIGS” bestowed upon Portugal during the financial crisis is now forgotten as the human tidal waves rolled up, delivered by low-cost airlines and cruise ships whose towering presence moored in downtown Lisbon often overwhelm the urban landscape. Best enjoy this historical seafaring city of old, picturesque neighbourhoods before Lisbon undergoes a total makeover.
Ascensor da Bica (courtesy of Khaled)
Lisboa is all woman (the traditional fado songs will testify to that) and gets by on charm alone. It is a city of contrasts, where old world glamour imparted from all corners of Asia and Africa wholeheartedly embrace an outgoing modern spirit.
It is a relatively compact city so can be done by foot. Those who insist on taking to the wheel be prepared to endure the recent traffic restrictions in the city centre that will test the patience of a saint. And if that doesn’t, then the “Fast & Furious” driving style of the local populace most certainly will. So, pack those comfy walking shoes or you will regret it.
See the vistas from the top
For a first glimpse of the city layout walk up to the Moorish castle (Castelo de São Jorge) through the old Mouraria neighbourhood and enjoy the street art. Otherwise take the (in)famous tram number 28 (the lesser known number 12 is another option) that starts in Praça da Figueira. Beware of pickpockets thriving on the cramped conditions of these old trams.
If you find yourself downtown head to the viewing platform of the Elevador de Santa Justa. This elevator is 45m high and is located in one of the main streets that go down in parallel lines from Rossio square to Praça do Comércio at the river. If the queue at the bottom entrance seems dismally long and discouraging to you, don’t waste your time and head to the upper street level instead.
In order to do that walk towards the beautiful old Rossio train station, check out the exuberant architectural style, then take the road behind to the left. Follow till you reach the pretty square of Largo do Carmo with its shady trees and popular kiosk opposite the church called Igreja do Carmo. This roofless monument was a former convent that was partially destroyed by the deadly earthquake of 1755. The remaining ruins have only added to the eerie beauty of this intriguing sight, especially after nightfall and under a moonlit sky. Check out if for classical musical concerts happening here in the summer.
Just around the corner is the top of the Elevador de Santa Justa where you can enjoy a fine view over the city. In need of a pit-stop? Head to the nearby bar Topo Chiado for refreshments and relaxation before contemplating your next move.
For one of the best sunset views go down to Praça do Comércio and visit the viewing point at the top of the majestic arch, Arco da Rua Augusta, now open to the public.
THE “MIRADOUROS“
Roman legend has it that this sun-kissed city spreads its urban mass out over seven hills. This geographic layout provides visitors with formidable views from the popular miradouros. These belvederes are a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of city life and the summer heat. They are the local hangout for the elderly, the young, the students and the many amorous couples.
The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is one of the most popular ones and a fixed stop on the sightseeing route up to the castle. It is located in the Principe Real neighbourhood, one of the busiest and trendiest areas of Lisbon at the moment. The area is now abuzz, parking is scarce so you’re better off reaching it by foot from Chiado. Another colourful option is to take one of the city’s oldest funiculars, the Ascensor da Glória, that starts off in downtown Avenida da Liberdade. This is a picturesque ride, a bit on the steep side…
Alfama
I have a soft spot for the Miradouro das Portas do Sol near Alfama. Across the road from it you will see the revamped terrace of Portas do Sol Drinks & Food, a recent bar-cafe-restaurant with a balcony that hangs over the old neighbourhood of Alfama. Comfortable seating and a good sound system make for a serene setting with prime views over the Tejo. Go late afternoon for aperitivo. Order a bottle of Espumante Murganheira Reserva Brut (FYI Portuguese sparkling wine) and you’ll have found the perfect silent companion for end-of-day river gazing.
This area is a good starting point for visiting the castle or exploring old Alfama, a once poor, slightly decadent, but quaint working-class neighbourhood with an abundance of typical taverns and unassuming fado bars.
Nowadays the neighbourhood sports a slightly botoxed complexion. Wealthy foreign investors have given it new sheen, but local Lisboetas yearn for the days when Alfama was a humble neighbourhood of stray cats, fishy smells and dubious, dark alleys, where sun-wrinkled old ladies could be spotted hanging laundry out to dry on their cramped little verandas. Nowadays, the foul stank of days-old wine wafting out of seedy fado bars merging with the melancholic tones of a Portuguese guitar is harder to find. Alfama once poor, but welcoming, has gentrified, for better or for worse.
The graceful neighbourhood called Grace – Graça
If you continue upwards past the castle either on foot or by tram you will come to the Graça neighbourhood and its splendid Miradouro da Graça. It is a peaceful and magical spot for taking in the sunset. You can grab a drink from the nearby kiosk and sit on the wall with the rest of the crowd and await the magical hour. Bonus: if any buskers are around you may be in for a treat of the perfect free musical soundtrack to go with that sunset.
The River, Tejo
“Down to the river…” sang ol’ Bruce Springsteen. The Tejo is the city’s centrepiece. Endlessly captivating at any time of the day or under any weather conditions it is source of relaxation and activity.
The river banks have always been a meeting spot. Now it is also a panoramic walking/jogging trail for the more healthily-inclined and a hotbed of cafes, bars and restaurants for the leisure-indulgent types. Some visitors amazed at the vastness of this waterway often confuse it with the sea as the river traffic is a jumble of sailing boats, cargo ships and ferryboats.
That river, visible from most parts of the city, is your beacon of orientation so keep that in mind if you share my pathetic lack of orientation. If ever at a loss for direction just look out for a glimpse of that moveable, shiny blue mass in between the buildings. Google maps will now save you all the bother and heated discussions as well as some of the inherent joy of getting lost in a city.
Cais do Sodre
Cais do Sodré is a good starting point for any walk. This location is a transport hub and hosts a terminal point for ferryboats, metro and train lines. It is also the neighbourhood of the Mercado da Ribeira (do go there!) and many other popular riverside cafes and restaurants such as Ibo, Ibo Café or the beautiful Vestigius wine bar next door with a view to the other side of the river.
Over 20 years ago Cais do Sodré had a shady reputation for attracting sailors in search of unwholesome entertainment in various brothels and night clubs that flourished in its alleyways. The main street – “Rua Rosa” – has cleaned up its act and is now a playground for night owls. One of the former brothels has been recycled and turned into an intimate, cabaret-esque bar called Pensão Amor (Pension of Love) https://www.facebook.com/pensaoamor.
All cleaned up. Still one wonders: where have all the sailors gone, not to mention the ladies of the night?
It’s an interesting place. The back room hosts a stripper’s pole. Depending on the level of alcohol consumed you may be able – or not – to test your acrobatic skills and unleash your wild side. Otherwise, take a comfy seat and just chill.
Sardine-mania
Speaking of the erotic, let’s talk food. Close by on Rua do Arsenal near Cais do Sodre you will find one of my favourite shops in town, the Loja das Conservas, which displays and sells a mind-blowing assortment of canned tuna and sardines amongst other fishy delicacies. I dare you to come out of this shop empty handed. Another such shop – A Conserveira de Lisboa – is located downtown in Rua dos Bacalhoeiros. There’s just no escaping the holy sardine.
Back on the waterfront at Cais do Sodré we are faced with the newly renovated promenade (an urban beach in the summer) which allows you to walk all the way to Praça do Comércio, the grand square at the river flanked by yellow governmental building facades. This whole stretch is a lovely walk and a social gathering site with buskers providing ongoing entertainment. Not to be missed if you want to go with the flow and join the local crowds for lazy river-gazing from morning till sundown.
A day trip to Cacilhas: Off the Beaten Track
Travellers searching for a sniff of a typical Portuguese working-class environment should take the ferryboat (cacilheiro) from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas on the other side of the river. The relaxing trip from takes less than 15 min and you will find yourself in a completely different world. Gone is the madding sound of the big city. Technically, Cacilhas is not part of Lisbon, although it’s called the South Bank, yet, for those who undergo the daily commute to the capital for either work or pleasure, it somehow is.
Cacilhas is now an attraction for tourists seeking a cheap and easy day trip. This modest neighbourhood that once thrived due to the naval industry – now a shoreline of abandoned shipping repair docks – is suddenly very popular and every season witnesses the emergence of new bars and restaurants.
The main attraction of Cacilhas for Lisbon residents are the various small and moderately priced small restaurants as well as the marisqueiras and cervejarias – the popular, noisy, crowded seafood restaurants where Portuguese from all walks of life can be seen feasting on lobster, crab and shrimps doused by copious amounts of beer or vinho verde.
If you’re running from the Lisbon crowds and in pursuit of some undisturbed views of Lisbon and the bridge you have to cross over to Cacilhas. When you arrive and exit the turnstiles turn right. Follow that grimy road overshadowed by abandoned warehouses alongside the waterfront and keep an eye out for those partially collapsing, crumbling buildings. Keep going and enjoy the inspiring walk and the views as it is now. There is talk of plans to redevelop that whole strip and turn it into another fancy, modern waterside project. If you make it to the end of the path you will have reached two idyllic local restaurants, Atira-te ao Rio (tr. Throw yourself in the river) and Ponto Final (tr. The Last Stop), in winter only open on weekends. Food tastes better with a good view. The atmosphere of this magical spot and its undisturbed views across the river will most definitely make up for anything.
If you’re up for more adventure head for the elevator construction close by. You can walk all the way there and then for just 1 euro this lift will take you up the cliff to the old part of the city of Almada where you have another great view to the bridge. Better still, this is the location of the Jesus Christ statue that looms up as a welcoming sight to travellers crossing the bridge.
Cacilhas: where to eat
The first cervejaria you encounter upon exiting from the ferryboat is O Farol, a long existing establishment and until very recently only frequented by locals. The place has now adapted to the recent waves of tourists and offer seafood menus for a fixed price making it easy for foreigners who would otherwise be overwhelmed with the unending choice of seafood dishes on offer.
Nowadays your bread roll will be served hermetically packed in plastic (we have Covid to thank for that one). That aside, most of the waiters have been faithfully serving here since I can remember. That alone speaks to the reputation of the house. The service remains as professional, efficient and friendly as it always has been, hence its undying popularity amongst the locals. It does serve up a good sapateira, the national seafood darling, i.e. stuffed crab, and great ameijoas a Bulhao Pato (clams sauteed in garlic, coriander and wine sauce. As in every seafood place, there are always meat options on the menu.
You can also just pop into O Farol for a quick refreshment. Take a seat at the bar, you may have to elbow a local or two nursing their own poison, order your tapped beer and a little dish of freshly cooked prawns to go with it. It won’t break the bank, look around, everyone is doing it and it beats peanuts any day!
Try the popular steak sandwich, the notorious prego: a thin cut of beef is fried in loads of garlic and then inserted into a bread roll with the sauce dripping off. Otherwise try the pork version called bifana with a touch of sweet mustard. Now that’s a must.
There are many other eateries in Cacilhas to match your pallet. Boteco 47 is a good option if youre tired of the more traditional menus. The young chef in his mini open kitchen cooks up delicious small dishes in full sight of customers https://www.facebook.com/Boteco.47/
HISTORIC BELÉM
A riverside neighbourhood full of history, Belém is the place to learn more about Portugal’s maritime past. You can spend a whole day here. There are two UNESCO sites within walking distance of each other: the Jerónimos Monastery and the Tower of Belem.
The modern Centro Cultural de Belém (Cultural Centre of Belem) where concerts and art exhibitions are held is worth a visit. It houses a large, modern and contemporary art collection from Joe Berardo, a Portuguese private collector. The CCB – as it is known – also houses a café with a terrace where you can enjoy a drink or bite with a view.
The more recent MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) a bit further down the river is another spectacle for lovers of modern architecture and a big hit with Instagramers.
And for those addicted to the holy pastel de nata please note that the original factory of these custard tartlets is located on the main street in Belém. You can spot the queue from far away. Once there politely push through the crowds lining up for take-away and delve into the cavernous Portuguese-tiled rooms of this historic place and you will soon be seated. Their pastéis de nata, or pastéis de Belém may no longer be the best in town, but the traditional atmosphere of the place and the fact they’re served warm straight out of the oven makes up for any shortcomings. Indulge.
DAY TRIP TO MAGICAL SINTRA
How can one not fall in love with Sintra? Lord Byron certainly did and he named it the “glorious Eden”. A mere 30-minute drive out of Lisbon, this beautiful, fairy tale village was once the summer leisure resort of the Portuguese kings who took shelter here from the heat in the capital. Those were the day when kings would build palaces to bestow as gifts upon their loving consorts as a token of their love. In view of that it is clear that romance is out of the window nowadays.
If you are into admiring colourful old palaces and castles, go to Sintra. It will keep you entertained all day. Despite its UNESCO status and the hordes of people visiting it on weekends (avoid Sundays when the Portuguese drop in for a local sweet and coffee), Sintra remains breathtakingly beautiful and timeless. Walk away from the central square and roam the little alleyways, enjoy the picturesque architecture and lush vegetation surrounding the village centre.
There is much to visit in terms of architectural sights: the colourful Pena Palace, the Palace in the village centre, the Moorish Castle, Monserrate Palace, Seteais, etc. However, if you have to pick one I would advise the Palacio da Regaleira in the town itself. Created by a wealthy Brazilian this place takes you back in time to the mysticism surrounding the Templar knights. Just make sure to visit the initiation well which summons up scenes from Dan Brown’s books.
Last, but not least, do stop off for coffee or tea in pastry shop Cafe Piriquita for a sampling of the local sweets, travesseiros, a pillow-shaped (hence the name) puff pastry with a delicate almond and egg cream filling that dissolves in your mouth and queijadas de Sintra, the unassuming but ever so good little fresh cheese and cinnamon tartlets.
Sightseeing in Sintra brings on an appetite. I most vividly advise heading to the coastline for lunch with a view. There are options: for rugged, wild beauty go to Praia do Guincho (Guincho beach). This stunning stretch of beach is a Natural Park Reserve very popular with the international surfing crowd, less so with swimmers due to the constant winds blowing from the Atlantic ocean. Romantic and captivating even in the winter months for its raw unspoiled beauty, it is also the perfect setting for some very fine dining.
The other option is Azenhas do Mar, a 30 min drive from Sintra and every second worth it. This is a small fishing village perched upon an amphitheatre-like cliff hanging over the sea.
To eat in Praia Grande, Colares right on the beach : Bar do Fundo https://www.facebook.com/BardoFundo/
To eat in Azenhas do Mar : https://www.timeout.com/lisbon/restaurants/azenhas-do-mar
You can literally have your meal on top of one of the natural pools at the foot of the cliff. Postcard pretty, romantic, laid back and tranquil, it makes for a very romantic and beautiful lunch stop.
If you have the time, skip the motorway back to Lisbon and go back via the coastline (the Lisbon Riviera) instead and stop off also in the aristocratic, picturesque seaside town of Cascais.
There is much to see and do within a short enough distance from Lisbon.
Options worth considering for day trips: Obidos (a walled-in jewel of a city), Mafra (famous convent city), Sesimbra (calm and picturesque fishing village), Arrabida (Protected National Reserve alongside amazing seascapes), Peniche and Nazare (the destination for big wave surfing).
And then there is the rival city, Porto, easily accessible by high-speed train. Again, Porto is a small city easily done in 2 days. Useless to rent a car for the sightseeing bit, unless you intend to wander off along the Douro wine route or visit the seaside.
WHEN HUNGER STRIKES IN LISBON
A little word of advice to the gullible and unwary eater before the recommendations follow. Should the traditional açorda dish ever present itself or be inflicted upon you by some over enthusiastic Portuguese national, politely decline, decline, decline and decline. Even if you are the adventurous foodie type, I do not wish that upon anyone.
Eating out is no longer that cheap in Lisbon due to the overwhelming amount of young remote workers or comfortably retired pensioners that now reside in Portugal all year long. However, you are spoiled for choice whether it be for national fare or ethnic.
For a special occasion and depending only on the calibre of your wallet try these:
https://www.almalisboa.pt/en/cuisine
or some of our habitual favourites:
TABERNA MODERNA
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 18A
1100-070 Lisboa
+351 218865039
http://tabernamoderna.com/
This restaurant is located downtown between the river and Alfama and a few steps away from the beautiful Casa dos Bicos. Therefore, if you have trouble finding it just ask any passer-by for this reference point. The place remains just as enchanting as it was when it first opened up years ago housing the first gin bar in town: the Lisbonita Gin Bar. The food here is a wonderful combination of home-style Portuguese/Spanish dishes most of them to be shared which provides for an informal, good food experience. If you are a fan of black cuttlefish ink risotto it is certainly one of their popular dishes. It will have you scraping the last bits off the bottom of the pan. The eel and spicy shrimp dish is also an interesting choice, but if you prefer meat go for duck or the black pork (plumas). I’ve never had a bad foodie moment in this cosy, laid back joint. The service is equally friendly and professional. Besides the usual wine card you can also accompany your meal with an expertly prepared gin. Charming place with a casual vibe. I have it on speed dial.
O CANTINHO DO AVILLEZ
Rua dos Duques de Bragança, 7 (Chiado)
1200-162 Lisbon
+351 211 992 369
http://cantinhodoavillez.pt/cantinho-lisbon/
Chef Jose Avillez is best known for his 2-star Michelin restaurant called Belcanto. After his initial success he then opened several other places, namely Pizzaria de Lisboa, Cafe Lisboa, etc, mainly all in the same neighbourhood of Chiado. The Cantinho do Avillez, meaning Avillez’s little corner, aims to provide a more affordable and casual dining experience. The menu is Portuguese with some foreign influences reflecting the chef’s travels abroad. The result is an unpretentious menu in a homey setting despite the chef’s international fame and its location in a trendy neighbourhood. I particularly for a special lunch. Everything dish stands out so just go with the flow, accept the waiter’s suggestions and you will not leave disappointed. Be sure to book ahead. (N.B. Not such a pleasant experience last time as we were treated more like tourists than locals).
TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES
Rua das Flores, 103 (Chiado)
1200-194 Lisbon
+351 213 479 418
https://www.facebook.com/pages/A-Taberna-da-Rua-das-Flores/292950570719522
This is a very good albeit “no reservations place”. It is also small and very typical and well located. Go early to avoid queues. The daily changing menu is written up on a small blackboard and the waiter will happily translate the specials of the day for you. They provide an interesting mix of typical Portuguese dishes with a creative twist.
TASCA DA ESQUINA
Rua Domingos Sequeira, nº 41C
1350-119 Lisboa
+351 919 837 255
http://www.tascadaesquina.com/
This interesting restaurant is from the renowned chef Vitor Sobral. Off the touristic path it has survived for years in a quiet, upmarket neighbourhood of Lisbon called Campo de Ourique which is now very popular with French expats. The menu here offers traditional, creative Portuguese food. Here you are free to indulge in just a couple of petiscos (tapas) and a glass of wine, order a-la-carte or, as we often do, leave yourself entirely at the mercy of the chef’s creativity who will cook you an array of interesting dishes. Just let them know beforehand of any food allergy or if there is anything you do not wish to eat (Offal, no thanks!). Service is smooth and friendly. Food is fresh and light, portions are small, but it all tastes good. Try the sautéed tuna, the baby calamari with mushrooms or one of their bacalhau dishes. Guaranteed to please. Also on offer: a good variety of Portuguese cheeses and sausages.
PEIXOLA
Rua do Alecrim, 35
1200-014 Lisbon
+351 21 346 0011
https://www.peixola.com/
Our last discovery, credit to the husband this time round, was this lovely eat-at-the-bar place. As the name suggests it’s almost all about fish with some lovely dishes such as the tuna pica-pau, the shrimp taco, the John Dory fillets with wasabi purée and, last but not least, the petit gâteau of caramel with raspberry ice cream which is the dessert you always go back for. Young, friendly and professional staff make for a relaxed atmosphere. While you wait you can entertain yourself by checking out the piece of recycled art on the wall – a huge fish made up entirely with bits and pieces of plastic and junk that flood our oceans. Look carefully and you will be amazed at the things you will discover.
TAPISCO
R. Dom Pedro V, 80
1250-096 Lisboa
+351 21 342 0681
http://tapisco.pt/index_en.html
A recent entry on the Lisbon gastronomy scene. Owned by chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, the chef with one of the best stalls at the Mercado da Ribeira and the high end restaurant Alma, this place already has raving reviews. Interesting and fun selection of tapas for a group outing albeit not cheap. But you are in the trendiest neighbourhood of Lisbon at the moment, therefore no longer a local people’s hangout.
A CEVICHERIA
Rua Dom Pedro V, 129
1200-093 Lisboa
+351 21 803 8815
https://www.facebook.com/ACevicheriaChefKiko/
This place needs no introduction. If it is not the giant octopus hanging from its ceiling that literally grabs your attention it will be the constant crowds hanging around outside. It is modern, cute and informal. Super fresh ingredients go into making some of the best Peruvian food around. I definitely recommend the Pisco Sour while you’re waiting for a table to be freed up.
For those with healthy appetites in search of authentic atmosphere and more traditional food …
ZE DA MOURARIA in Mouraria neighbourhood.
O VELHO EURICO for the best bifana in town.
A FLORESTA DO SALITRE on Avenida da Liberdade (downtown)
TASQUINHA DO LAGARTO
Rua de Campolide, 258
1070-039 Lisbon
Located off the touristic route and run by a family from the North of Portugal, this joint offers generous portions, low prices and a welcoming atmosphere.
ZÉ DOS CORNOS (loosely translated: Joe, the Cuckold…) Beco dos Surradores, 5 (Mouraria/Martim Moniz)
1100-591 Lisbon
Considering the name of this place I suggest you don’t go inquiring into this family member’s extra-marital affairs. An out of the way authentic eatery. Serves mostly fish or meat on the grill, also bacalhau, although the pork meat seems to be the star attraction. Try the bifana, a pork steak fried in lots of garlic served in a sandwich with a dash of mustard. A wholesome snack. Yum!
TASCO DO VIGÁRIO
Rua do Vigário 18 r/c (Alfama)
1100 – 400 Lisboa
Cheap, good food with daily specials thrown in. This typical place is always full and you will get the feel of traditional Lisbon. Service is friendly, portions are big, the way some like it. Frequented mostly by locals.
And then God created seafood…
Cervejarias and marisqueiras are a national rite of passage for every Portuguese and there are good ones even in the most unassuming neighbourhoods of Lisbon. You can tell their popularity by the amount of people inside. These lively, noisy, family oriented restaurants are a melting pot of people from all social classes (students, white-collar workers, politicians and entire families at weekends) all happily hammering away at crabs and other such creatures, whilst downing copious amounts of beer or Vinho Verde, the white “green wine” from the North of Portugal.
The seafood feast is always rounded off with a thinly sliced beef steak fried with garlic and served in a bread roll. That is the infamous prego, to be found everywhere and so often called “dessert” by the local population. The alternative is the pork version called bifana.
A quick note to beer lovers. A beer is uma cerveja. If it’s one from the tap you’re looking for ask for uma imperial, por favor! Otherwise, the bottled kind is a toss between the two major home brands, Super Bock or Sagres. Which is better? It’s like choosing between Porto or Benfica. There are fanatics on both sides.
PINOCCHIO
Pinocchio is the flavour of the day, the week, the month, the year! If you love seafood you’re in the right place. Besides the seafood they serve one of the best typical meat dishes in town: “pica pau”.
You will need to book!
O RELENTO
Another favourite just outside of Belem in a quiet neighbourhood. Casual vibe, clean, friendly service and pleasant environment. Don’t be surprised if the Portuguese President himself drops in with his whole entourage. He’s obviously a fan as well…
… and last, but not the least, there’s the viral internet sensation that is called Ramiro. The place warrants no introduction. The queues at the door speak for the reputation of the place.
RAMIRO
Av. Almirante Reis, nº1 (Private parking: Travessa do Maldonado, 1)
1150-007 Lisboa
Telefone: +351 21 885 10 24
Basically every tourist guide nowadays mentions Ramiro. Made infamous by American chef, Anthony Bourdain, who came, ate and lauded its merits. Thirty years ago Ramiro was a very popular albeit rather grubby joint in a unsavoury neighbourhood of Lisbon. It cleaned up its act and maintained its quality. You can spot the hordes of hungry customers queuing outside from afar. With internet fame came tourists and I suppose that explains the fact that their traditional menu card has been replaced by a tablet where those unwary of the variety of seafood consumed in this country can easily pick and choose. The seafood here is super fresh. Quality reigns in its pure simplicity. Must try: grilled carabineiros (big, deep sea, dark red prawns). All the rest falls away after eating these. Just a pity they’re so pricey.
O NUNE’S REAL MARISQUEIRA
Rua Bartolomeu Dias, 120 (Belem)
1400-031 Lisboa
When all else fails, but not only then…
Head to the holy grail of food at Cais do Sodre – the food hall of the Mercado da Ribeira – where you can eat anything your heart desires.
Time Out Mercado da Ribeira
Avenida 24 de Julho
Cais do Sodre
1200 – 481 Lisbon
https://www.facebook.com/TimeOutMercadodaRibeira?ref=ts&fref=ts
Much has been said about this Time Out project located in the former central vegetable, meat and fish market of Lisbon. It’s a foodie’s pleasure dome. Open 7 days a week from 10 am till midnight and till 2 am at weekends (opening hours may have changed since the covid pandemic) this sanctuary hosts various food stalls from some of the most prominent chefs in Portugal, as well as others dedicated to wine, beer, gin, coffee, chocolate, sweets, local products, etc.
The success of this place is largely due to the fact it has made high-end restaurants more accessible to the larger public as the best Portuguese chefs have a stall here. Having said that, prices are quite steep nowadays due to the heavy influx of tourists. Nonetheless, a glutton such as I, is faced with tough choices upon entering this temple of temptations. My favourite stall, is Sea Me. The original Sea Me restaurant is in the trendy Chiado area and getting a table is a tough endeavour. So their stall at the Mercado offers some consolation. Try the Duo of Sardine & Bacalhau Nigiri – which simply melts in the mouth, the deboned sardine fillet having suffered minimal manipulation beyond some torching which gives it a charismatic BBQ smokiness. A mouthful of goodness in a divine Japanese/Portuguese culinary marriage.
Then move on to Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa’s stall for some of that “crispy skin suckling pig sandwich with homemade pickles”. And a starter? Tough choices: will it be the super fresh salmon tataki with sweet chilli sauce or the sea bass tartare with avocado and mango? Probably both.
Do not leave without sampling a pastel de nata from Manteigaria, presently the most popular specimen of the kind in town (the main shop is in the Chiado area). If instead you are more a fan of French patisserie then head to L’Éclair. On my last venture I opted for a variety of four different éclairs – to be shared, off course, with my closest and dearest: yuzu, salted caramel, raspberry and coffee. Call it the 2018 Autumn/Winter collection if you will, for if looks could kill in the sweet department, these certainly would. Beyond the attractive appearance and the high price tag I suspected there might be lurking some major disappointment. However, éclair fans, fear not. The choux pastry is light and airy, ditto the fillings and the sugar level in perfect harmony. Every little detail combined into an incredible lightness of being. The raspberry version, by the way, trumped all the rest. I am a convert.
If it’s your first time at the Mercado take your time, wander around and see what catches your eye; better still, check out what your table companions’ are eating and if something looks appealing don’t be shy, just ask where they got it from. This place encourages interaction with strangers.
P.S. There is another very interesting food hall which I am very fond of because it is smaller, more traditional and mostly frequented by locals in the neighbourhood of Campo de Ourique: https://lisboacool.com/en/eat/campo-ourique-market Best evening atmosphere at the end of the day when shops close and locals and office suits drop by for post-work drinks or a quick meal. Good vibes guaranteed.
FOR WINE-ING
Lovers of wine are spoiled for choice in Lisbon although wine bars here cater mostly to the national producers.
BY THE WINE
Rua das Flores 41- 43 (Chiado)
1200-193 Lisbon
+351 21 342 0319
By the Wine is a wine bar-cum-restaurant owned by one of Portugal’s biggest wine producers, Jose Maria da Fonseca. A whole wide range of wines os available by the glass. The products on the food menu stand out for their quality starting with the bread and the Ibérico ham. This place has a lively atmosphere and tends to get full at weekends so you need to reserve. However, if no tables are available the very long bar is a comfortable, even preferable, option if you like to follow the action up close.
THE OLD PHARMACY WINE INN Rua do Diario de Noticias 78-81 (Bairro Alto)
1200-142 Lisbon
351 920 230 989
The Old Pharmacy Wine Inn is located further up in Bairro Alto. It was converted from an old pharmacy and has retained much of the original décor with its inbuilt glass cabinets and lighting. They have a great selection of wines and variety of cold cuts and cheese. The service is friendly and knowledgeable. For a showstopper in this otherwise chill bar, ask for the Portuguese chouriço which will be flamboyantly grilled in your presence with the addition of aguardente contributing to a fire and light show. A very charming environment to quietly savour your wine.
GARRAFEIRA ALFAIA
Rua do Diário de Notícias 125 (Bairro Alto)
1200-143 Lisboa
+351 213 433 079
http://garrafeiraalfaia.com/wines-snacks/
Seemingly low profile and unassuming in appearance, but excellent in terms of wine this all time favourite is also located in Bairro Alto. The atmosphere is chill but they certainly know their wines. These can fortunately be accompanied by a varied selection of traditional Portuguese sausages, pata negra ham and cheese as well as some small, well prepared dishes. Worth asking for advice if you find the wine card too daunting.
GRAPES & BITES HOSTEL AND WINES
Rua do Norte, 85 (Bairro Alto)
1200-284 Lisbon
+351 924 457 494
https://www.facebook.com/grapesandbites/
Our latest discovery in the wine department is Grapes & Bites which is wine bar, restaurant and hostel all combined in one. It was packed on the week night we went and live music is on every evening. An incredibly long wine menu, many served by the glass. The food, mostly tapas, although not appetising in appearance totally surprised us in taste. Altogether a very satisfying experience. Will definitely return.
Update: the wine-related discovery of 2021 was the wine bar of renowned wine producer Jose Maria da Fonseca located in the centre of the beautiful village of Azeitao. If you are visiting the drop dead gorgeous Arrabida region then do stop of as it is well worth the detour: https://www.jmf.pt/index.php?id=636
OTHER WATERING HOLES
Do not miss this ages old gem:
PAVILHÃO CHINÊS (Chinese Pavilion)
Rua Dom Pedro V, 89/91 (Principe Real) 1250-093 Lisbon
+351 213 424 729
https://www.facebook.com/pavilhaochineslisboa
A bar for all ages with charm to spare. It is a worthy pit stop on a tiresome sightseeing day. Here you can chill out in old world, antique museum-like atmosphere. The Pavilhão Chinês has been around forever. Nowadays the neighbourhood is buzzing with all sorts of newbie hangouts. Yet, this bar has endured the times. Discover all the hidden rooms in this lovely maze of a place. The room at the absolute end with the two pool tables in the middle and your own private bar is a favourite. The soft music goes together with a drinks menu long enough to keep you busy for ages. Let’s just say they have every liquid poison you could desire under the sun from coffee, tea, to heavy spirits and good cocktails. Service is professional, the waiters seem to have been there longer than I care to remember. A delightful stop at the end of a busy day or for a late nightcap.
A GINGINHA
Largo São Domingos 8 (off Rossio square, to the right of the National Theatre)
1100-201 Lisboa, Portugal
One of Lisbon’s little gems that has resisted time is to be found round the corner from the central Rossio square downtown. It’s called A Ginginha (little, sour cherry). Whether you like ginginha or not, now and then one gives in to tradition or peer pressure and goes for a shot of alcohol in the middle of the day. This little hole-in-the-wall place exists since 1840 and has survived generations. Basically it is a go-to place for a quick chest warmer since the early morning till shops close. At 1.20 euro this shot of homemade sour cherry liqueur is the kind of old “medicinal” drink prescribed by our savvy grandmothers for many a sick day. My grandmother too had her own homemade brew permanently in the house. She lived to the ripe old age of 99 without major afflictions. The new trend for tourists requires the ginginha to be served in a chocolate cup so that’s a bonus point for chocoholics. Too sweet for me, personally.
Have a wet wipe or two on hand for this is sticky business. If the old gentlemen behind the wee bar asks you something unintelligible, most probably it will be com elas ou sem elas?, meaning do you want your shot with or without a cherry inside? It’s your call.
IN A SUGAR RUSH?
You will soon understand that Portugal is not diabetic-friendly. Regional sweets are popular and plentiful. There is no escaping it so I shall not burden you with more than the following:
For some of the best pastéis de nata…
MANTEIGARIA
Rua do Loreto, 2
1200-242 Lisboa
(also in Mercado da Ribeira
PASTÉIS DE BELÉM
Rua de Belém, 84 – 92
1300-085 Lisbon
http://pasteisdebelem.pt/
For French patisserie, éclairs, macarons, etc…
L’ÉCLAIR
Duque de Ávila, 44 (Saldanha)
1050-083 Lisbon
http://www.l-eclair.pt
and for pure chocolate heaven you cannot miss…
BETTINA & NICCOLO CORALLO
Rua da Escola Politecnica 4
1250-096 Lisbon
Welcome to paradise. The kind of chocolate produced in this shop is of the dark kind and whether ingested pure or flavoured with sugar crystals, cherries, ginger, fleur du sel, etc, it is guaranteed to give your taste buds a real boost. Studies say that consumption of chocolate can actually improve your bad mood even if only for a few minutes and the better the chocolate the longer that effect will last. Love chocolate or not, you cannot remain indifferent. This is the real deal.
The Italian/Portuguese couple who own this little space in the Principe Real area source their cocoa beans from their own plantations in the former Portuguese colony of São Tomé & Príncipe where they spend much of their time following the whole process. Theirs is a labour of love and respect for the honest transformation of the precious cocoa bean.
Naturally, this dark gold does not come cheap, but don’t let the price put you off. A small sample is also sufficient to keep you wishing for more and, if chocolate just doesn’t do it for you, try the coffee of the house, the hot cocoa or the other big success which comes in the form of chocolate sorbet. If you are still not convinced then I rest my case. There will be more left over for me.